On the 25th June we began our expedition to Machu Picchu, having signed up for The Inca Trail and finding out it was one of the hardest routes to take for the trek we made ourselves very comfortable in our hotel room and were quite reluctant to leave. The first day was full of introductions to our Inca Family, a petite group of 14 we were very lucky to meet such lovely people, I should really include our guides in that number so make that 16 including Elias and Edwin. Amazing, amazing guides. Our second day was the just the beginning of the adventure and visiting various Planeterra-supported facilities along the way was extremely inspiring – I have already spoken about this so follow this link to read if you fancy – we travelled through the Sacred Valley and visitied the archaeological sites of the Saksaywaman and Ollantaytambo en-route. Making the most of our hotel nights it wasn’t long before it was rest time as we knew this would be our last comfy night for a while with our accommodation looking over the beautiful Urubamba River Valley it was peaceful to say the least.
KM82 the starting point of the Inca Trail it became a regular phrase we heard along the way and of most importance we never had to turn back and return to it. Our goal of the day was to reach Wayllambama around 11km away it was a long trek of 5 hours for the first stretch on what was called Inca Flat – 100% not flat at all, if anyone tells you Inca Flat expect odd ups and downs and climbs the whole way. Just a little taste for what was in store I guess. Spending time playing ‘Would You Rather’, minutes spent applying sun cream and listening to music it wasn’t long before we arrived at the first camp.
Now I feel is a good time to mention our AMAZING team of porters who carry 20kg each of gear, including tents, food, cooking equipment and even the gas tank for cooking these guys make it possible for the groups to hike this trail and would not be the same without them, at times they would even run past us. The camp was always fully set before we arrived, welcomed by drinks and cooking of the dinner what more could you ask for? Three course meals prepared every evening, along with coffee, tea and even a cake for one night only for a woman in our group turning 40..crazy right?!
The mornings became something of a drag on the trail 5am calls after a restless night in a tent is not my idea of luxury. Day 2 of the trek and we were told this would be the hardest of all the days a climb up hill up to Warmiwañusca ‘Dead Woman’s Pass’ at the elevation of 13,769ft, powerade became something of a lifesaver especially at the end of the 5 hours. Tough was an understatement it felt like an uphill marathon, regular breaks were taken and as soon as we felt a spur of energy we would only make it ten steps before the next stop; the altitude just kills you. Ipod was an essential. Over the pass, and with a quick shot of Pisco in celebration we began trekking again this time downhill for two hours; no rest for the wicked. Amazing views became something of a normality along the way everywhere you looked was just truly breathtaking. Lunch, Siesta, Dinner, Bed. Ultimately exhausted.
Day 3 and up at 5am once more it was the day of the nine hour trek to Wiñaywayna and just beyond over to our campsite this stretch was easy compared to the past days with the sun with us on every occasion it was safe to say we were blessed with the weather, below freezing temperatures at night sadly in the tents was not very enjoyable however. Up and down the Inca flat trails through the cloud forest and through yet more Incan constructions along with admiring the stunning views of the Urubamba Valley. That evening it was time to bid farewell to our trusty porters and soon drifted off to sleep for the final day, ready for the stretch the Machu Picchu.
‘Morning Nell, morning Alice, would you like some coca tea?’, this was our wake up call every morning of the trail and on the 4th and final day it was not something I wanted to hear at 3am. It was a race of the hikers to get over to the control point of ‘The Sun Gate’ and with a fluster of people racing about getting ready in the ever so fetching head torches we were down at the control point by 3:30, waiting to be let through at 5:30. Setting off in an almost sprint to be first up to the Sun Gate still all in the dark with my trusty head torch keeping a metre of path lit in front of me, and when I say sprint I mean sprint; sprinting is hard at 5:30am. No time for head torch adjusting or peeing to Alice’s dismay but we made it to the top of the ‘Gringo Killer’ staircase and yes SECOND group to the Sun Gate. Brilliant! Sadly on this day Sun Gate had turned to Cloud Gate and from where we were there was no Machu Picchu to be seen so once again we were off, and after maybe another 2 hour trek as the clouds parted we found ourselves sat amongst Machu Picchu.
Truly breath taking, incredible that we managed to complete it. The trek changes you both physically and mentally; thighs, bum and calves were absolute steel. But mentally it seperates you from the individuals who just ride the bus there and miss out on so many of the amazing experiences we did. And despite the fact of not showering in 4 days and not looking your best I did feel somewhat superior to those who were wearing camping attire and their main adventure was getting from the bus to Machu Picchu via the sites restaurant. Learning the history of the site from Elias and Edwin made it all that bit more special aswell.
With 20kg of laundry ready to be delivered and hot showers all round arriving back in Cusco once again felt as though we were home. To my horror on the evening of the celebrations for finishing the trail with our fellow Incan family ‘Locos Gringos’ everyone wanted to try the local delicassey of Guinea Pig ‘Cuy’. I had managed to avoid having to try it until now, the Guinea Pigs are presented whole, teeth and all it was traumatic to say the least. No exaggeration. And suprise, suprise I politely declined the offer to taste, my rule is never try anything that looks as though it may get up and scramble off the plate.
All in all this was the most amazing experience and will never forget any of it. Please enjoy these lovely photos, even if I do say so myself.
P.s Pisco Sours are nearly as good as Caipirinha. Nearly.
nelltilly's 